|
The
Thrill of Surfing
Arata
Narita from Japan
|
Photo:
Naotsuga Matsumoto
As I have improved my surfing
skill, I've begun to seek for a
"the big wave", even a typhoon
situation. When the wave is big,
it's thrilling.
|
|
I
have been surfing for two years. The
reason why I started surfing is that I
came across a beautiful beach in Miyazaki,
Japan.
Miyazaki
is one of the most famous spots for
surfing in Japan. In summer time, many
surfers visit Miyazaki from all over Japan
or even from overseas.
I
live in a college dormitory and it is
close to the beach. Because the beach was
close, I had no doubts about deciding to
learn to surf. I have played many sports
in the past, such as soccer, football, and
rugby.
However,
now I realize that I like surfing the best
because surfing is a sport which improves
me the most. To learn surfing techniques
is very difficult, and it takes time.
Also, surfing is done in a totally natural
environment, the sea.
I
realized that the size, quality and power
of waves are different in each surfing
area, so I have tried surfing in Hawaii
and Australia as well as in all areas in
Miyazaki.
|
Photo:
Naotsugu Matsumoto
When
I come out of the wave, I feel
lucky I'm still
alive.
|
|
As
I have improved my surfing skill, I've
begun to seek for a "the big wave", even a
typhoon situation. When the wave is big,
it's thrilling. Each wave is different. A
wave never comes in the same way. If I
succeed in riding a big wave, it gives me
a feeling of accomplishment and
excitement
But
sometimes you can't succeed in riding the
wave. Then you just go into it. This can
be dangerous. At that moment, you think,
"Oh, maybe I'll die." When I come out of
the wave, I feel lucky I'm still
alive."
More
about water sports: Students
Interview Novice Scuba
Diver
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