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The Thrill of Surfing

Arata Narita from Japan

surfer Arata Narita
Photo: Naotsuga Matsumoto
As I have improved my surfing skill, I've begun to seek for a "the big wave", even a typhoon situation. When the wave is big, it's thrilling.

I have been surfing for two years. The reason why I started surfing is that I came across a beautiful beach in Miyazaki, Japan.

Miyazaki is one of the most famous spots for surfing in Japan. In summer time, many surfers visit Miyazaki from all over Japan or even from overseas.

I live in a college dormitory and it is close to the beach. Because the beach was close, I had no doubts about deciding to learn to surf. I have played many sports in the past, such as soccer, football, and rugby.

However, now I realize that I like surfing the best because surfing is a sport which improves me the most. To learn surfing techniques is very difficult, and it takes time. Also, surfing is done in a totally natural environment, the sea.

I realized that the size, quality and power of waves are different in each surfing area, so I have tried surfing in Hawaii and Australia as well as in all areas in Miyazaki.

surfer Arata Narita
Photo:
Naotsugu Matsumoto

When I come out of the wave, I feel lucky I'm still alive.

 

As I have improved my surfing skill, I've begun to seek for a "the big wave", even a typhoon situation. When the wave is big, it's thrilling. Each wave is different. A wave never comes in the same way. If I succeed in riding a big wave, it gives me a feeling of accomplishment and excitement

But sometimes you can't succeed in riding the wave. Then you just go into it. This can be dangerous. At that moment, you think, "Oh, maybe I'll die." When I come out of the wave, I feel lucky I'm still alive."


More about water sports: Students Interview Novice Scuba Diver

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